Travel Diaries

The Grandiosity of God

Visiting religious places is always a humbling experience. I believe in God and the omnipresent power of the universe, which guides our move within this supreme cosmos. I am a practising Catholic – though I can neither claim to be a serious church-goer, nor an authority on the Bible. Nonetheless, I am a believer, who is still trying to appropriate the best of what her faith has to teach her, each day of her life. Our faith is as evolving as ourselves. We keep imbibing new value systems, without shirking the old completely. Religion, I personally feel, is the essence of mankind. Even if we don’t claim to belong to a particular faith, our own morality that guides us, is akin to religion. We all need something to cling on to, mostly, to confirm our right actions and to question the wrong ones. This makes the purpose of religion – despite being a melting pot of different faiths – universal. So why differentiate?

That brings me back to my fondness for churches, temples, mosques and shrines. Despite being a Christian, I have never distinguished, when entering a religious site. Here in, I find a semblance of peace. It’s true that you don’t need one singular place to connect with God. But the sheer magnificence and beauty of these places, reel me into imagining what heaven would look and feel like. Would it be as meditatively inspiring? Would it be so architecturally grandiose as it is here? Would it be the one place where I could find God? I am yet to figure out what attracts me to these places. I just know that when I visit what we describe as the ‘temple of God’, I unconsciously switch off from the rest of the world. Whatever happens then, is worth experiencing.

A few months ago, I visited the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat – one of the grandest in the Gulf region, boasting of a capacity seating of 20,000 worshipers. It was my first visit inside a mosque. It’s surprising, what took me so long to visit the place, considering I lived just a stone’s throw away from it and that this place made for a stunning backdrop, during my every day commute. Fortunately, when my brother came down to spend his summer holidays in May this year, we decided to include it on our must-see places.

The mosque is right in the heart of the city, and just a 20 minute-drive from the Seeb International Airport. Non-muslims can visit the place between Saturday and Thursday from 8 to 11am (Entry is free). Out of respect for Islamic culture, women should dress modestly when visiting. Don’t forget to carry a shawl or scarf along with you, which you’d need to wrap around your head before entering the premises.

The mosque sits on a vast stretch of land, ringed by manicured gardens on all sides. It’s definitely an architectural marvel to behold. The main domed-structure is surrounded by five towering minarets. In the night, the luminous golden-orange glow that lights up the majestic dome, illuminates Muscat’s skyline. The strong undercurrents of contemporary Islamic and Persian designs are visible throughout the interiors of the Grand Mosque. I visited one of the prayer halls, which was opened to the public, and the crystal chandelier was worth stressing my eyes over. So is the Persian carpet, which measures 70m by 60m and is the second-largest hand-loomed Iranian carpet in the world, weaved by over 600 women over a period of four years (Source: Lonely Planet). I don’t want to ruin your experience of this place with my elaborate description, so I’d let the photos do the talking. Sadly, I didn’t own a DSLR then, so I settled for my Lenovo phone camera. I wasn’t, however, disappointed with the outcome.

What I took back from my visit, however, was surreal peace. It’s the calm you feel, when you are in absolute communion with yourself. Inside this majesticity, you become a curious spectator, observing everything around you, praying within you and probably wondering, if God’s ever listening.

The majestic Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque:

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Seven life lessons I learnt in two years!

Being awaythe_time_post from home has taught me lessons to last a lifetime. With homecoming just a earshot away, there are so many things, events and people to be grateful for. I could go on talking about it. But to cut a long story short, I have lived the most miraculously eye-opening two years. For starters, I learned that there is so much to value, so much to love, and so much to cherish. I probably have changed, and changed for the better.  Here’s why and how:

A shift is not life-changing, it is life-altering: Two years ago, when I left Mumbai, I was confident that this was going to be a life-defining moment for me, and that being thrust into a new environment – no matter how unnerving that was – was going to change my life forever. I was wrong. Call it a lack of experience, or my own naivete at that time, I realise now that nothing can really ‘change your life forever,’ it can only alter it and leave a few ripples in this vast ocean of life. And that such alterations and ripples will keep happening, and will keep bringing in many changes – sometimes slowly and steadily, and sometimes, too soon for your own comfort. Whatever it is, we shouldn’t look at any one moment in our life – be it shifting countries, writing a book, falling in love, getting married or having children – to bring that crazy change that we assume it would. Having such notions either creates too many expectations or frightens us from taking that big leap. We don’t realise that change is not drastic; it is our reaction to such changes that make the outcome drastic. Think about it!

Give family a chance: If it wasn’t for that conversation I had with my mom one lazy afternoon last year, I wouldn’t really know what I was missing. I don’t know what had come upon me that day, but I was suddenly sharing tales about my past crushes with her. She, on the other hand, was so excited that I had let her into that space, which until then I had only reserved for close friends that she kept prodding me for more details. With each name I brought up, she funnily said, “But I always knew you liked him”. To, which I curiously asked, “Then why didn’t you tell me?” She dejectedly replied, “I thought you didn’t want me to know.” That day was so nice; it was like two best friends talking about life – only that one of us undeniably knew the other better.  The point I am making here is that sometimes we invest so much energy into friends that we forget to enjoy familial bonds. I got new best friends in my parents and brothers in the last few months. Trust me, when you realise this, you stop searching.

Invest in a machine: No, not your cellphone, Iphone or laptop…blaah! They are more like crack. I am talking about something more real, which both inspires and occupies you. Like say a car, sewing machine, DSLR, oven…it could be anything that has a conceivable productive outcome. You will be surprised, how a machine can teach you something about you or reveal a side you never saw of yourself. I saved up enough to get my hands on a car and DSLR this year, and need I say, it’s been a brilliant experience. My car Jake, in particular, taught me to be patient, focused and always on guard for unexpected trouble. Mostly, thanks to Jake, I learnt a big road (life) lesson. You could probably do endless planning for the road ahead, but it’s not until you hit the turf that you’d finally know what the journey is going to be like. Making assumptions about your journey is foolhardy. It’s also okay to have minor bumps and accidents on the way. Rather than alarm or panic, accidents should draw an assuring smile. At least, you’d know the consequences of repeating the same accident (mistake) again.

Tell people how you feel and say it soon: Honestly, I am not an ardent proponent of this. If I hated someone, I’d never let them know. And God forbid I liked somebody, he would never find out. I think the biggest mistake we do is in not telling people how we feel and most importantly, not doing it soon enough, especially when the moment seems to be just right. Be it at work, be it at home, be it in our personal lives – it is always better to have things cleared out, rather than play games in your head, where your mind (if it is as fertile as mine) over-analyses every situation or conversation. I hate confrontation, I will admit that.  I also hate letting people know when they behave like douche bags and treat me like a toy that can be used when they fancy. But there is a point when your mind tells you that ‘it deserves some sanity’, and that though you might look like an absolute idiot in the end, it is better to have it out, rather than imagine a “what if” situation. Some years ago, I remember being very upset with a friend for things this person did. At that time, I was so furious, but I just let it fester. It made me so bitter then, and I didn’t even like the feeling. Months later, I did tell this person why I was upset, but it didn’t garner the reaction I had expected. Why? May be, because I was tad too late in addressing my own issues. So let people know how exactly you feel, and let them know it soon. The outcome can be heartbreaking, gut-wrenching and tear-jerking. But at least, you did your part. Done and dusted, more like it.

Write letters to your loved ones: Do you know that the written word is magical? I reserve writing letters for just a handful of friends – some of whom are usually prompt with a reply (thanks to email) even though, it is just a few paragraphs or sometimes less than 10 sentences. But the power of the gems we dole out in these few sheets of paper is inconceivable. Often, when I am at my lowest low, I go back to these letters, to hear what my friends have to say about me, about life and about a lot of things in general. It revives my dispirited self. In this world, where emotions are now conveyed ostentatiously through emoticons, text language (lol, rofl and hehehe…like seriously), and video chats, letters are hard to come by. Consider yourself lucky if you’ve found yourself a pen pal. My best friend and I wrote a lot of letters in the past, and they were beautiful to read. Currently, I have another friend sitting in Bangalore, indulging me with her wise words. She is an amazing colleague turned close friend, who moves me each time she writes. We have this incredible chain of thoughts that find way into our letters when we sit down to email each other. And for those, who claim to never find enough time to write letters…well, that’s the biggest lie, you have been cooking up in your own head. You don’t need time to write a letter. It is actually the other way around. It’s the letter that makes time to get itself to be written down.

Keep a planner: At the start of the year, I was nursing a silly little ache. Homesickness only added to my woes. It’s funny, but at that time, I wanted to escape my predicament so badly that I decided to keep a planner. I tore out the calendar-cum-planner that I found in a news magazine, and before I knew it, it became a source of inspiration. How did it work? I usually rewarded myself for every significant landmark in my life with a star (sometimes two stars) and drew a tick for every day that had passed. The bad days, if there were any, found a mention too. And because it was stuck on the door of my room, people who came over would usually smile with amusement. My brother, who was visiting in May, didn’t fall short of calling me a “fool”. Looking back at this calendar with just two months to go before the year ends, I am, however, glad that I found it. It has several dates that have been starred – like, when I bought my first car, when I drove alone, my first accident, when the cops first pulled me over, my trip to Greece, when I started writing my book, my pre-birthday surprise, my great big trekking adventure of the year, the long drive with my close girlfriend etc. This planner reminds me that while the brilliant days did not outweigh the ordinary ones, they did exist and that I need to be grateful for them.

Go off social network, even if it is for a while: I tried my hands at a social experiment this year. After years of being an avid Facebooker, I decided to give up on it for a while in June this year. The initial few days were super challenging, mostly because I was so used to skimming through my timeline the first thing in the morning. My dose of Facebook had become as important as morning coffee to me. When three days off social network had passed, and I realised that I had nothing to do – if you call snooping into people’s virtual life a thing that should be done – I started working on my next set of short stories. I think it was my most constructive month, and gave my life a sense of direction and purpose. Often, we get so caught up in the distractions of the virtual world, that we forget why we are here in the first place. Everything that we do and say becomes something that has to be done and said, because people will ‘like’ and ‘comment’ about it on social network. I had begun to feel that I was getting caught in this same charade.  Just this month, I gave up on Facebook again – this time I clubbed it with my favourite Instagram. But let us be honest, we cannot escape this virtual juggernaut. Though a timely break to remind yourself of the life you can live without it, won’t do any harm. There was a world that once existed between Stone Age and the Virtual Age. You can reclaim it, if you want to.

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Fort-spotting, Travel Diaries

Nakhal musings

Girlfriends are the best thing that could ever happen to a woman. They work the magic of a hot soup on a really crummy, cold and lonely day. It so happens that every where I go, I find myself amazing female company. Our friendship has a very predictable graph: We start from becoming good friends, to confidants, to annoying mates, before we eventually take on the role of soul sisters, who can read each others’ mind without even having to spell it out . In Muscat, where I have been working for the last two years and where, I am currently enjoying the last leg of my calm sabbatical from the crazy life in Mumbai, I have enjoyed the love and friendship of so many girlfriends that I can’t really complain. So this weekend, when I decided to take off on a sudden trip to visit the Nakhal Fort, which is a decent 90 minute drive from Oman’s capital city of Muscat, I knew that there would be no better person to have alongside me, than one of my closest girlfriends – Sajini. The two of us have been planning a long drive out of town since time immemorial. That we decided on a trip only now is a pity. But, better late than never. And to club this drive with fort-spotting….how awesome could that get?

We started the trip quite early for a sleepy Friday. Our early was supposed to be 7.30 am, but we eventually bargained on 8 am. Still groggy from my previous night’s running nose-infused insomnia, I reached Sajini’s home, where I left my car (Jake) and hopped into Sajini’s Mazda. It was my second time driving her car, and boy, I’m still trying to get used to controlling the breaks, especially at those jolting humps. Now both of us did not know where this place was, and since we are so technology-unsound, we didn’t even try relying on Google Maps. That’s how we went ahead of our destination, missing it once, before we drove back again.

For the uninitiated, Nakhal is a small town in Oman and is accessible from Muscat’s highway, if you take the road heading towards the coastal city of Barka. It can be reached after taking the left from the roundabout near Barka’s Lulu Hypermarket. From here, a decent 20 minute-drive takes you to Nakhal, known mostly for its spring – said to have healing powers – and the fort, which was on our itinerary. With my love for history and everything old, I managed to convince my friend to be part of my fort-spotting shenanigans. And should I say, she wasn’t the least bit disappointed when she saw the towering fortress that sat atop the hill.

The monument has a history dating back to the pre-Islamic Period, but it was extended in the early 1800s and ever since it has continuously been re-modelled. The Nakhal fort gets its name from nakl (meaning palms). Not surprisingly, a thicket of palm trees encircle the fort. The stone castle stands out from its counterparts because it was built on a jagged peak. Whosoever had the architectural genius to build this structure ensured that the rocks naturally found its way into the interiors of the building. It appears like the fort was built around the existing rocky terrain, rather than the other way around.

However, what I liked most about this site was that its many tiny-little rooms gave you a sense of the times and the lives of the people who occupied it. The men’s majlis (sitting area) for instance was decorated with rifles and a widespread rug with vibrant, colourful seating. The women’s room, interestingly, had been embellished with hand-painted chinaware, antique utensils and mirrors. What particularly caught my interest was what I assumed was an escape pit, which opened into a disconcerting craggy gateway below. One would land down with broken bones and that I was certain of.

Sajini and I took our time out experimenting with my new Canon EOS750D, and here I must say, how much I am in love with the DSLR already. We couldn’t get enough of ourselves, and the gorgeously-shaped arches that made for the perfect backdrop for our photographs, just bolstered us to indulge further. Masoud, who resides in Muscat, and handles the ticketing at the fort (500 Baiza per head) also became a willing subject for my DSLR. Having said that, it was such a wonderful morning that we girls nearly lost track of time. With a gazillion things to do back home, we left Nakhal just before noon.

You know how sometimes that smile just refuses to leave your face. I was told that it happens when your mind is happy and your heart is happier. I definitely won’t rule that out. But whoever said that, forgot to mention that you are the happiest, when you are left to your own devices in a spectacular place with beautiful company. That’s when you, undoubtedly, smile the widest.

A photographic narrative of Nakhal Fort:

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Travel Diaries

All in a day’s time: Island-hopping in Greece

Surrounded by the Aegean blue sea on all four sides with a cold burst of air escaping each time I opened my mouth, I knew just right then that this was stuff that dreams were made of. The sky was overcast – its grey refusing to discolour the icy blue of the sea – and the green rock-islands that broke the monotony of the ocean bed, so lush that I could not remember seeing anything like this before. Yachts sailed past us, propelled ahead by billowy waves and strong winds. I stood there alone on the top deck, watching our ferry speed by and leave frothy ripples behind me.

It was my first holiday in Europe. Jacketed completely to shield myself from the chill, I still managed to trace my skin that was layered in thick clothing, and pinch myself to believe where I was.

We were cruising across the Aegean Sea of the Sarconic Gulf to catch a glimpse of Hydra, Poros and Aegina – the three Sarconic Islands that enjoy closest proximity to the Greek capital city Athens.
Two words to describe them: Postcard perfect. These islands are no Santorini or Crete, but take comfort; they are still nothing like you’ve ever seen before.

In order to cover the three islands within a day, we had to make an early start. Heading out from our hotel Divani Caravel in Athens by 6.30am, we made it to Flisvos Marina right in time to take the Olympic Cruise, which left for the islands at 8 am.

The journey, to the say the least, was dreamy and romantic in parts. We had picked a rainy day for our sojourn, so the sun-kissed skies and the bright and high on contrast shades of Greece were sadly missing. But the gloomy weather only bathed the place in a palette that you wouldn’t otherwise see in travel diaries. It’s true that the colour of a place you experience, is the colour that the place wants you to experience. And I cannot even begin to say how fortunate I was.

We reached our first stop Hydra, a pedestrian island, around two hours later. No scooters. No cars. Only donkey rides to manoeuvre this gorgeous world of yore. Quite predictably, a donkey escorted me through the labyrinth of stone streets, toddling down the ascending alleyways that are home to some of the most gorgeous whitewashed villas I have ever seen. Sunny yellow, rust, orange and bright blue windows and doors prop some colour into Hydra’s whiteness. Old-world lanterns and small gardens embellish the entrance of most houses. I was tempted to escape deeper into this unspoiled hinterland to appreciate more of what I saw. Unfortunately, because my darling donkey was walking at leisured pace, any such plans had to be undertaken solo. And since my animal was playing such a wondrous companion, I chose against giving up on him. Small eateries near the harbour provide the perfect setting to bathe in Hydra’s charm. I also managed to scuttle some time out to visit the Greek Orthodox Cathedral and Ecclesiastical Museum, which is just a stone’s throw away from the harbour. I love old-world churches and the cathedral only gave me many more reasons to absorb is beauty. However, what I most remember from the church visit is the stunning and larger-than-life painting of Jesus Christ that graced its dome.

The island of Poros, which is just around half an hour away from Hydra, evoked similar sentiments. A flight of stone steps near the dock led me to a clock tower. From here, the panoramic view of the island gave me a glimpse of the serenity and peace that this little town had to offer. If there was one place I’d ever want to escape to, it had to be this one. The day dreamer that I was, I had already begun imagining myself buying a home in some place like this back in India, where I would spend all my time writing, while raising lovely musically-sound children along with my husband. Dreams. *Sigh* Getting down, I busied myself taking pictures of the bungalows and gardens along the stone-patched sloping lanes. An antiquated old church, however, caught my attention. But we just had 45 minutes here and that hardly did anything to make my island-hopping spree fun.

Two hours later, our ferry anchored at the harbour of Aegina, where a bus was awaiting us. We were driven down an ascending slope to the 2,500 year old Sanctuary of Aphaia that dominates Aegina’s pine-covered hilly landscape. Remarkably, most homes in Aegina boast of olive tree farms. However, with just the temple visit on our itinerary, there was little that we could explore. The site is one of Greek’s earliest places of worship, where the Goddess Aphaia used to be ardently worshiped. The elongated stone columns of the temple are a hark-back to the Parthenon in Athens – though less domineering in size. The temple also graces you with a breathtaking view of patches of farm land, the sea and the adjoining islands.

In the distance, I could see Athens in its full glory. In the ancient world, Aegina was considered an arch rival to Athens. With the beauty that abound us, one did not have to spell out why.

As dusk settled on Aegina’s sea, the cruise ship blew its final horn, reminding us that we had to call it a day. My heart sank once and then again. The third time, I assured myself that I would return soon. They say that love doesn’t happen in a day’s time. They were lying. This girl will vouch for that.

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In Absentia

angelWhen I was a kid, my mother told me the story of how she came to have a tiny little spot on her nose. Apparently, she had once lied to her mom. It had surprisingly been the first and the only time she had lied. But that didn’t spare her from coming under the radar of the Angel of Truth, who decided to punish her by thrusting a sword into her nose. If I recall bits and pieces from that imagined story, the sword came jutting right out from the other side of my mother’s head. But she escaped with a minor bruise to her nose. Since then, mom swore never to lie. The moral of the story – Always speak the truth, because the angel is lurking around (with the sword of course). Talk about where I get my storytelling skills from.

Growing up though, I took this story very, very seriously. I always feared that if I lied, the angel would come and pin me down with his sword and ruin my face. When I got my first pimple, I had a strange feeling that the angel had something to do with it. This despite being old enough to not allow my naivete get the better of me. But I soon realised that the Angel of Truth was a figment of my parents’ imagination because I had lied a time too many – just out of curiosity – so that I could come face to face with my darkest fantasy. But like Santa Claus, he never appeared.

Why exactly am I talking about angels and devils now? I don’t really know. I don’t remember lying in the last 24 hours, neither do I recall pining for that Angel. But some stories have that effect on you. They come to you when you are probably pondering about something completely different…like say, how my life has changed since I went off social networking. OKAY, it’s only been a week and it’s absolutely not such a big deal. But I have been contemplating this for months together and I never really mustered the courage, especially with all those lovely photographs and memories that I had embedded into my Facebook and Instagram profiles.

What I didn’t realise was that I had reduced my life down to a series of ‘likes’ and ‘comments’. The ‘likes’ had become assurances, and the comments, doubled the assurance that someone out there in the virtual world, cares for what you have to say, where you have been, how you look in your profile picture, or what you feel.

I thought about my life 15 years ago, and it was just as beautiful, even without these assurances. Unfortunately, I can’t time travel. So I thought why not unplug instead. I don’t know whether I can withstand the temptation and lure of this futile wasteland called social network. But I know I am giving myself a chance to live my life differently. And if I succeed, I would do myself very proud.

I confess I have revelled in the crazy joys of social networking. I like writing lovely notes to people on their birthdays, I enjoy tagging friends on silly matters of great consequence, and I honestly think my profile pictures, make me look a thousand times more appealing than I could ever be in person. But I know I am fooling myself, just like the world is fooling me. I once remember getting carried away by this someone, who used to regularly comment on my photographs with fanciful praises from his verbal shelf. I don’t know who had lied more – he or me, who had cropped and photo-shopped the picture to make herself look better. If the Angel of Truth had really existed today, he would have nailed half the world down (me included), for airbrushing our lives with photos and words that hold no value, except on the web. Like my mother, we would all have a tiny spot on our nose – a souvenir of that farce.

Meanwhile, as I stay away, I shall keep you abreast with not-so-super-sensational stories from my life via this blog, which if you haven’t noticed, has now undergone a dramatic change, having shifted to wordpress. Yes, I guess, am taking this ‘turning over a new leaf’ business quite seriously. Then again, I am using social network to publicise this change. Damn, I can’t run from it…can I?

Angel of Truth are you listening?

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